Bigelov's projects

[ConducTTor]

The conversion is really well done. You could do the intermediate piece (between chassis and coupler) as a 3D print.

[MacG]

I would try with an offset (underslung) Micro-Trains-Line coupler, like #2001 or #2004. For a shorter coupler distance and a more prototypical look.

[Bigelov]

Well, I have drawn up that coupler mount to print, and will get it printed sometime just to make sure it fits!

As for Micro Trains couplers, I find their list very confusing! Most of their coupler products I can only guess what they are like. I have a stock, but when that runs low I will look at getting some of those one you listed MacG to see how they go.

I generally assemble my own 1025 couplers but I am also thinking about getting some 1015 as they look shorter? Any comments on what you guys use would be appreciated!

[MacG]

I use the #1015 for all my Gold Coast boxcars, with a shim from the sprue. For an overview of MTL couplers, see here. https://micro-trains.com/publicfiles/mt ... agrams.pdf - Unfortunately, not all couplers are fully dimensioned.

I checked, and the #1025 is no longer than the #1015 between the claw and the mounting hole. In fact, it is minimally shorter, but when the car is pulled, the spring in the #1025 is compressed. This then makes the length between the claw and the mounting hole in the pulled train equal to the #1015. In a pushed train it is the other way around, the #1015 becomes shorter. The spring is compressed here by pushing the car.

[Bigelov]

A long time ago on a railway far far away...

[Marquette]

Hah, that's awesome.

[ConducTTor]

Duuuude!!! That's so cool!

[sman]

Love it