Bigelov's projects

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Bigelov
Posts: 82
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2019 4:51 am
Location: Albury Australia

Re: Bigelov's projects

Post by Bigelov »

Rod,
Yes the body is the MTB one, but with a few mods. Most obvious is the exhaust covers. They open when the engine is running, and close the top of the exhausts when shut down so rain and other stuff doesn't enter the exhausts. Also some extra handrails, with horn to be added. Most of the additional work has been on the pilots and underbody detail.

MacG,
I find the 3D printer is a great tool. A lot of experimenting to make things work, but I certainly enjoy it. The biggest issue with the printer is making sure the bed is level, and then working out how long to print at different layer thicknesses. I use 0.03mm layers and 10 second exposure with the base layers 80 secs to make sure it sticks. But each resin is different, so to work out the best settings I use a program from GitHub:
https://github.com/altLab/photon-resin-calibration
But have a go first to see how it works :) and then use the calibration tool to get the best settings for your resin and layer thickness. I also use Chitubox for slicing as its a bit more flexible than the Anycubic one.
Steve B
Russia in Narrow Gauge
Bigelov's Flickr Account

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MacG
Posts: 1149
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2011 1:19 pm
Location: Dresden, Germany

Re: Bigelov's projects

Post by MacG »

Thanks for your hints. I think the calibration tool needs an update for the fast Mono printers. With a layer thickness of 0.05 mm, the normal exposure time is between 1 and 2.5 seconds. I ordered Anycubic Clear and I hope with the 50% setting for UV light might work just as quickly. The normal value of 80% is not recommended for clear.
Lok-n-Roll.de - we send worldwide :wink:

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Bigelov
Posts: 82
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2019 4:51 am
Location: Albury Australia

Re: Bigelov's projects

Post by Bigelov »

1-2.5 sec exposure time would speed up the print time dramatically! The tank on my cryogenic car took 12 hours to print...

But I have made some more progress. The cryogenic car is painted and assembled. I soldered handrails and adapted leftover photoetch fret to make the metal parts. It is a little bit rough, but have also been working on drawing up some etches to get made for me. I also need to work on decals, but need a bit more info on what they should be for the 70s-80s. Can any of you good Russians help with that? I have two early photos of the car, but the rest I have seen are late 90's into the 2000's. I suspect all these cars are out of service now.

Image

Also finished painting and have assembled the SW9. It still works! but still need to sort out the ditch lights. The decoder is also very tight in the space and pushing the body up, leaving a gap underneath. I used a LaisDCC decoder. Another problem with it, it works fine using JMRI throttle, but the NCE PowerCab that I have doesnt talk to it. Anyone had problems like that before? I reset to factory defaults but still doesn't want to talk. the PowerCab works fine on my ChME2 (the only other loco I have on DCC apart from my narrow gauge ones).

Image

I also reorganised my Flickr albums, separating my Russian and US subjects. There are a few more photos of these on Flickr.
Steve B
Russia in Narrow Gauge
Bigelov's Flickr Account

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RodTT
Posts: 415
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2017 4:06 pm
Location: Northampton, England
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Re: Bigelov's projects

Post by RodTT »

I have used LaisDCC decoders successfully but not with a PowerCab. I'm surprised about your problem, with PowerCabs being so popular and also because LaisDCC are supposed to be pretty much the same as TCS.
But as to size, because I thought LaisDCC might be a bit too fat, I used Zimo MX622N plug-in decoders for my SW9s and they fit ok.

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RodTT
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Location: Northampton, England
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Re: Bigelov's projects

Post by RodTT »

Addendum to the above - someone on RMWeb has complained of a similar problem but it seems to be down to a faulty decoder. Althought they are popular, many don't like LaisDCC as some are erratic or fail after a while.

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RodTT
Posts: 415
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Re: Bigelov's projects

Post by RodTT »

Cracking loco finish by the way - I see you've taken the opportunity to move the rear handrail to the left of the steps up to a more prototypical position.

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Bigelov
Posts: 82
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2019 4:51 am
Location: Albury Australia

Re: Bigelov's projects

Post by Bigelov »

Thanks for the info Rod. I suspected the decoder was the issue. I do have a spare so will switch it out to see how it goes, but because it is so thick I will look at getting a thinner one. I have ground the shell a bit to make it fit also, but it is still too thick.

I found another thread which lists a few decoders others have used in the MTB SW viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2699&p=36657&hilit= ... ed9#p36657
Steve B
Russia in Narrow Gauge
Bigelov's Flickr Account

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