TT-Tracks

[Bill Dixon]

My standin warehouse model is glued together.

It will handle three 40' box cars.
It has some internal bracing along the bottom edges and in the corners.
It needs a roof.
I was going to add a loading dock, but the building looks good right at the edge of the track.
I might still add an awning over the doors.
When I redesigned the building to be a bit shorter, I cut the foundation down too much. This will be mounted on a base to bring it up to the right level.
I will add a few details to the building. Steps for the doors on the ends. An "Office" sign over one door with perhaps a dummy light. One thing the building must have is a striped "NO CLEARANCE" sign on the front edge of the building.

Some day this building will be replaced with a purpose built brick building, but for now I am happy with the result.

[Bill Dixon]

At Indianapolis in 2016 Fast Tracks announce TT-Scale track gauges.
They are finally available.

They look good and fit the Tillig bedding track perfectly.

[ConducTTor]

At Indianapolis in 2016 Fast Tracks announce TT-Scale track gauges.
They are finally available.

20200419_Fast Tracks Track Gauges.jpg

They look good and fit the Tillig bedding track perfectly.

Aha! Those can be useful...I'll go buy some.

[Bill Dixon]

Not doing as much as I should, but getting a bit done.

The guides to hold the bottom of the warehouse are now in place.
The ballasting between the tracks is an experiment. I am trying to bury the bedding track in ballast so the track does not look so prominent. I was originally applying a thick layer of ballast and then adding the glue. The glue never penetrated through all the ballast so it only formed an easily breakable crust over loose ballast. Break the crust and you get loose ballast every where.
Now I am mixing the ballast with the glue and putting the resultant mix where I want it and smoothing it. Not getting as smooth a surface as I want but I think I am getting better results than the first method. More experimenting to do.

[CFRiad]

Now I am mixing the ballast with the glue and putting the resultant mix where I want it and smoothing it. Not getting as smooth a surface as I want but I think I am getting better results than the first method. More experimenting to do.

It'd be worth trying ballasting in layers: pain glue on surface, apply, say, 1/3 of the ballast, smooth, apply glue, repeat until desired thickness is achieved.

[MacG]

We have used drywall primer (undiluted). What also works is wood glue (PVA) with water (1:1) and some drops of dish soap. You can also use isopropyl alcohol instead of dish soap.

Shape the ballast and then apply the liquid/glue through the entire layer with a pipet.

[ConducTTor]

Alcohol is better as it evaporates unlike soap.

[Rich1853]

[quote="Bill Dixon"]
The ballasting between the tracks is an experiment. I am trying to bury the bedding track in ballast so the track does not look so prominent. .[w/quote]

Tillig makes a STYROSTONE embankment strip # 86412 light gray (also 86411 dark brown)
It measures the same height as the track bedding all you need to do is to cut bevels to the edge with a razor knife to match the track bedding which measures 20°. (160°)
https://www.tillig.com/eng/Produkte/pro ... 86412.html

[MacG]

Alcohol is better as it evaporates unlike soap.

You only need it for surface relaxation of the adhesive. The few drops of washing-up liquid make no difference when drying.

[Bill Dixon]

Some good ideas there.
I have tried the layers method. Takes too long for me, and more chances to screw it up.
The Tillig sheet is interesting but way too expensive by the time I get it here. Have to allow for the new normal of more expensive shipping from Europe.

Although my current idea does work, it uses a lot of ballast.

I have used 1/4" foam sheet beside some tracks to raise the ground level, but the sheet is the exact height of the roadbed and is too high once it is ballasted.
My next experiment will be with HO scale cork roadbed cut to fit, then painted grey, glued down and then ballasted. The HO cork roadbed is 5mm thick so there is room for ballast.
Have time to experiment and redo things.