Lionel conversions

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MacG
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Re: Lionel conversions

Post by MacG »

It can run well with, but it doesn't have to. Some manufacturers write in the manual that you have to remove the capacitor.

The details are difficult to explain in English, please look there: rmweb.co.uk
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Rich1853
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Re: Lionel conversions

Post by Rich1853 »

Tillig also mentions to remove the interference capacitor from the bottom of bedding track 83740 when going from analog to digital operation. Their advanced track system has a separate part number for the DC power connection one with and without the capacitor.
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Richard-B
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Re: Lionel conversions

Post by Richard-B »

RodTT wrote:
Tue Jul 21, 2020 4:45 am
Why is the capacitor incompatible with DCC?
The R/C (resistor/capacitor) network is a noise filter... to prevent motor brush arcing from interfering with nearby electronics (TV, Radio, etc...) These were routinely applied in Europe... and apparently not mandated in the US.

While intended to filter noise originating FROM the motor... the R/C network can also treat the incoming DCC signal as 'noise'... reducing the ability of the decoder to interpret the DCC signal.

I use the removed R/C networks to keep my wastebasket from floating off the floor...
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RodTT
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Re: Lionel conversions

Post by RodTT »

So best to be forewarned - if I unscrew the chassis block are there any loose parts waiting to fall out?

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MacG
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Re: Lionel conversions

Post by MacG »

The two halves of the chassis hold the engine and the trucks in place. Because of the wires they cannot fall far, only the cardan shafts are loose.
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RodTT
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Re: Lionel conversions

Post by RodTT »

I finally plucked up the courage to open the chassis so I could cut the capacitor off. It easily cut off from underneath but it took me a while to get everything back together what with the cardans falling out and the trucks and wires proving a bit tricky to get back into place.
But here we are, all wired up and working on DCC. Lights yet to be fitted and a bit of insulation to put in place. I've also filed grooves in the metal so I can recess the lighting wires across the tops. I've bent the LED wires to make sure they avoid the protruding screw holes in the body roof.
As mentioned before, after unsoldering the pickup wires from the motor, the red and black decoder wires have to be soldered to the orange and grey pickup wires and the orange and grey decoder wires have to be soldered to the red and black motor wires.
The worst is over (I hope).
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ConducTTor
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Re: Lionel conversions

Post by ConducTTor »

I like what you've done with the LED (pic 2). I just have a mess of wires and resistor and heatshrink lol.
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MacG
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Re: Lionel conversions

Post by MacG »

Congratulations, you have mastered the complicated chassis assembling. I would heat-shrink the wires from the LED because of the conductivity of the brass.
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RodTT
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Re: Lionel conversions

Post by RodTT »

The chassis is a pretty tight fit inside the body but how do people secure it to stop it falling out when the loco is picked up?

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MacG
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Re: Lionel conversions

Post by MacG »

The chassis does not actually fall out. If you want to prevent this, you could screw on bent metal sheets with the couplers. Or you add a small drop of white glue into the gap between chassis and shell.
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