Joma Tanker Car

[AstroGoat760]

This is a sheet metal car, comparable in size with the HP Tanker car.

Joma Tanker (Top) with HP Products Tanker Car (Bottom) for comparison.


A look at the underside of the Joma tanker.

[Anonymous]

The details are better than HP Products.
I like this tankcar very much!
The details don't show very well when painted black... Some other paint schemes will follow.
The bolster needs a metric screw (M2), which might be unusual in the US. Old laptops are a good source for M2 screws.

As sold

Joma Tankcar

Finished

SP tankcar for liquid sugar

[Marquette]

I've got one all painted and lettered for Imperial Oil with Black Cat decals in TT, but still haven't found screws for the bolsters. Now I know what to look for so I can get some trucks onto it.

I'm very happy with this tank car. I have a second one that I'm planning to pull apart and clean up, and hopefully make some useful resin castings of it.

[j p]

I have been asked for pictures showing how to mount MTL couplers on this car.
Here they are:

Remove the coupler cover plate.

Now the coupler fits very well.

I use MTL 1015. If you have sharp curves on your layout, MTL 1016 might be better for you.
I paint the car first, then attach the couplers using a high quality double sided Scotch-tape. Glue can be used instead, or you can drill a hole and use the coupler mounting screw.

[milwrd1]

Excellent Excellent

Unsolder / remove the brass coupler cover and tap / drill mount the coupler. Thanks so much for the pictures. As the saying goes....a picture is worth 1000 words

Thanks again for the pictures.

[j p]

Excellent Excellent

Unsolder / remove the brass coupler cover and tap / drill mount the coupler. Thanks so much for the pictures. As the saying goes....a picture is worth 1000 words

Thanks again for the pictures.

No need to unsolder. It holds only on the end (see 2nd picture) - at least not needed for my Joma cars.
Just take long nose pliers and bend it up and down.

[milwrd1]

Excellent Excellent

Unsolder / remove the brass coupler cover and tap / drill mount the coupler. Thanks so much for the pictures. As the saying goes....a picture is worth 1000 words

Thanks again for the pictures.

No need to unsolder. It holds only on the end (see 2nd picture) - at least not needed for my Joma cars.
Just take long nose pliers and bend it up and down.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll take a look at one of the cars this evening, either it pries off or a touch with a soldering iron should get the cover off.

[ConducTTor]

Thanks for that j P.

[milwrd1]

jp is correct.

I worked on the Joma tank cars last evening. The coupler cover can be pried off with a small screwdriver. The small bit of solder between the cover and the frame will "give way" when gently coaxed with the blade of a small screwdriver. One other tip though......as shown in the photos previously provided by jp, the coupler cover has a hole drilled in it. Before removing the cover, use the a small drill bit to provide a centering hole or alignment mark for the coupler mounting screw. Don't drill through all the way, just provide a mark. Most of the trouble I have mounting couplers is getting the coupler mounting hole centered. Use the hole in the cover as a template or guide for locating the mounting screw.

Another comment. Joma also made a brass caboose and gondola, pictures appear else where on this forum. They also have a coupler cover. These cannot be easily pried off. Due to the flat underframe on these cars, a rather large fillet of solder exists between the coupler cover and the underframe. A soldering iron will be required to remove the coupler covers from these cars. The tank cars are different here, due to the angle bracing on the underframe which allows only a small area of solder between the coupler cover and the angle bracing on the underframe.

[j p]

Here is a picture of the bottom with GoldCoast trucks and non-original M2 screws salvaged from old laptop computers.
The diameter of the hole in the GoldCoast truck has been increased to 2.1 mm.