Piko G1206 Eisenbahn & Häfen GmbH "545" (47220)

[Dibbedabb]

Hey guys,

since I got mine yesterday, I can show a few pictures and give a little more information including a very simple test.
At the first glance the model seems to be quite petite. The handrails are made of metal and seem to be sturdy.
Very good to see are the much finer details compared to the hobby models 182 and ER20 - everything is much less "washed out".
The original EH545 was built in 2004 by Vossloh. The lettering "MaK 1206" on the engine hoods refers to Vossloh's predecessor MaK, but is correct.
The model finally has a real close coupler, not the shitty coupler Piko used on their 182 and ER20. It comes with the old BTTB coupling head.
The loco has a slower gear ratio than the 182 and ER20, the top speed is close to Tillig's class V100, maybe a little faster. The powertrain is quiet.
Piko's G1206 has a nice warm white headlight and red backlight, changing with the direction. For all you digital drivers it's important to know that the model has a 6pin-decoder connector, not the 8pin used before.

But since sun always includes shadows, there a few things Piko could have done better.

All G1206 are part of class 275. Piko's website puts the EH "545" into era VI, but since the model doesn't wear the NVR number used since 2007, it is era V. The original has it's NVR number (92 80 1275 112-1 D-EH) written with white letters under the EH-sign.
The model doesn't run as smooth as Kuehn's models or Tillig V100, more "jumpy". If you cut power, there's is no braking and no rolling out - just a simple stop.
The headlights and backlights are too bright and should be dimmed.
The most annoying issue is about the horns on the cab. They used to be separate parts on the ER20 (which is 25 EUR less than the G1206), but now on the G1206 the horns are part of the cab's plastic - and they have only half the height they should have.

All over the G1206 is a good model and worth it's money. I wouldn'd mind having more models from Piko's "Expert" line.

[ConducTTor]

I'm curious about the "jumpiness" and sudden stop - doesn't the model have a flywheel(s)?

[Dibbedabb]

Hi! I was wandering about that, too. Yes, the model has flywheels. But in fact they are very thin. See the >> manual <<

[ConducTTor]

Oh yeah - they ARE very thin. Can you make a video of it moving/starting/stopping?

[ees1bk]

You mention the coupler mount has changed. Does it still need the adapter the ER20 needed in order to fit Tillig close-couplers?

[Dibbedabb]

@ees1bk
Tillig's (or any other) close-couplers finally work without adapters. No extra investment needed.

@scaro
I'll check later in the evening, when I'm home.

[Dibbedabb]

The wheel diameter is 7 millimeters, truck wheelbase is 20 millimeters and distance between truck centres around 60 millimeters.

[anotherTTnut]

further Prototype info for anybody interested......

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MaK_/_Vossloh_G1206

[anotherTTnut]

Piko's G1206 has a nice warm white headlight and red backlight, changing with the direction. For all you digital drivers it's important to know that the model has a 6pin-decoder connector, not the 8pin used before.

I didn't see this in Piko`s description, good to know! Have you equipped yours with a decoder yet? I was trying to open mine up on the weekend and had to stop since I could get it open. Is there a trick to it (i know about the screws for the cab)? Does a decoder with pins directly attached work or do you need one with a cable extension? Thanks.

[Dibbedabb]

I don't use digital by now, so I didn't have equipped mine with a decoder. But I had it open to paint it. You need a decoder with pins directly attached.
If you paint the body black on the inside, the models appears less translucent (especially the exhaust really wins!).

Opening is horror... The cab is a single part and just plugged. Pull it off carefully, because otherwise you might damage the handrails. Than loosen the screws (they hold the part with the hoods) and then you have to push away the snap-in noses behind the wheels. They are quiet tough - unfortunately. I even thought about cutting them, because the entire part is hold with the screws, but I don't know, if this results in a gab between the hoods and the frame.

With this > link < you get the manual and service part numbers.