U30b imaterialise

Re: U30b imaterialise

Postby TiTan downunder » Fri Jan 25, 2019 7:08 pm

Now, a comparison from iMaterialise to S..tways - all taken at same focal point and magnification.

U30b from iMaterialise - straight out of the package.
IMG_0708.JPG


S..tways - TTnut's 2 bay covered hopper AFTER 3 x separate coats of Tamiya fine primer - rattle can - with sanding, filing and even scraping with a chisel blade between coats.
IMG_0717.JPG

IMG_0718.JPG

Impossible to get a smooth surface. I guess I can always add a few more lumps to represent hardened concrete weathering.

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Re: U30b imaterialise

Postby ConducTTor » Fri Jan 25, 2019 7:14 pm

Thank you sir, I will steal a few of those.


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Re: U30b imaterialise

Postby TiTan downunder » Fri Jan 25, 2019 10:28 pm

>> Thank you sir, I will steal a few of those.<< You're most welcome.

Things have progressed a little.
IMG_0724.JPG

IMG_0723.JPG


The motor and fuel tank are only temporarily held with double sided tape. I need to re-do the brass chassis plate as the hole for the lead truck is 1.5mm to far forward and the rear hole went " wonky " ( technical term ) when the drive belt on the Unimat broke. Will take a few days to get a new belt via ebay.

Question for those in the know - does Tillig make a cardan shaft longer than 19mm?
These are the longest I have and will be too short. I have all the repair sheet / manuals but they don't always give the length. Otherwise I can make them up with NWSL parts.

Will tinker some more tomorrow morning before the heat sets in again. Today were headed for a "pleasant" 42 C
( 105 F ?? ) in the shade.

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Re: U30b imaterialise

Postby AstroGoat760 » Fri Jan 25, 2019 11:17 pm

Hot damn, that is pretty!
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Re: U30b imaterialise

Postby ConducTTor » Fri Jan 25, 2019 11:46 pm

Ooooooh!!!! I love it! Oh yeah another thing I forgot....dammit it's been so long. Look on the inside of the tank for a small triangle. It's an "arrow" pointing to which end should be forward. In the proper direction, it will sit directly in the center of the chassis and the fuel nozzles will fit with the cutouts of the frame property. They are prototypically not exactly the same distance from the end of the tank on the sides.


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Re: U30b imaterialise

Postby Carsten » Sat Jan 26, 2019 5:08 am

[quote="TiTan downunder"

Question for those in the know - does Tillig make a cardan shaft longer than 19mm?
These are the longest I have and will be too short. I have all the repair sheet / manuals but they don't always give the length. Otherwise I can make them up with NWSL parts.[/quote]

Kardanwelle 29mm
Art.Nr.: 10-300536

Otherwise cut the cardan shaft in two pieces and glue it together with a suitable plastic tube according the length you need.
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Re: U30b imaterialise

Postby Rich1853 » Sat Jan 26, 2019 9:37 am

Carsten wrote:[quote="TiTan downunder"

Kardanwelle 29mm
Art.Nr.: 10-300536

Otherwise cut the cardan shaft in two pieces and glue it together with a suitable plastic tube according the length you need.


Reinforce that glue joint with shrink tubing. Some are adhesive lined too.
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Re: U30b imaterialise

Postby j p » Sat Jan 26, 2019 10:42 am

Rich1853 wrote:
Carsten wrote:[quote="TiTan downunder"

Kardanwelle 29mm
Art.Nr.: 10-300536

Otherwise cut the cardan shaft in two pieces and glue it together with a suitable plastic tube according the length you need.


Reinforce that glue joint with shrink tubing. Some are adhesive lined too.


Steel tube worked for me - I used it for extending the cardan shaft for Alco PA.
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Re: U30b imaterialise

Postby TiTan downunder » Sat Jan 26, 2019 7:16 pm

>> Look on the inside of the tank for a small triangle. It's an "arrow" pointing to which end should be forward. <<

OK, found that. Just fluked it when I stuck it there for the photo.

Carsten - thank you. Will order some this week. With one 29mm I can just offset the motor with one of the shorter ones for the other end. Other otherwise I'll cut & shut as you ( and Rich1853 & JP ) suggest.

While I wait for these & the Unimat drive belt to arrive I've started to fiddle with the fuel tank. The idea is to make a styrene plug to fill in the base, then glue some plastic tube to that to allow for the holding screws to go up into the base plate. Then fill it with 5 minute epoxy loaded up with small lead shot. With the tube in place I won't have to drill through the lead shot. Occasionally, I have these " brilliant " ideas !!! :lol: :lol:

Anyway, I've probably got 2 - 3 weeks to figure it out before the parts and replacement drive belts turn up. One the "advantages" of living downunder!

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Re: U30b imaterialise

Postby ConducTTor » Sat Jan 26, 2019 8:16 pm

And throw some flywheels on that motor! And put the better trucks on ;)


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