TT-Tracks

Re: TT-Tracks

Postby Bill Dixon » Mon May 20, 2019 3:06 pm

CFRiad wrote:
Bill Dixon wrote:How about three modules? [...] Two of these end up being four feet long. [...] A two inch slab of insulating foam with door skin glued to the edges would be strong enough. [...] a couple of pairs of dummy connecting tracks with unijoiners may be enough.

And we should design/build these with acrylic hand barriers from the get-go.


The Teardrop end loop can reduce the reverse curves at the expense of length and transportation.
Teardrop End Loop.jpg
It requires three four foot modules and a piece.
Here it is eight feet long and requires two tables to hold.
It has some interesting possibilities.
There is space for a small staging yard inside. To reduce joints on module boundaries, I would build the staging yard as one piece.
The banner could be setup so that it was inside the reverse loop. The stand shaft would stick up through the hole show.
All the module boundary track joints would be made with straight bedding track pieces.
Rather than anything hitech and expensive to join the modules, how about Velcro strips on the edges and across the top of the modules?
It has possibilities.
Regards
Bill Dixon
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Re: TT-Tracks

Postby dileTTante » Mon May 20, 2019 9:15 pm

Part of the proposal is that straight modules can be inserted and the curves divided into curved modules similar to the normal corner modules. The crude diagram attached is just to show the idea, not the actual dimensions or sizes. The angle of the diagonal straight from the turnout likely can be adjusted to produce a useful length for modules in both straight portions. If it's a standard module length then any standard module could be inserted. Any of the straight modules in the loop could have a turnout for spurs within the loop.
Breaking the reverse loop into component curved and straight modules hopefully makes all easier to transport and set up.
- Terry C
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Teardrop End Loop breakup.jpg
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Re: TT-Tracks

Postby Bill Dixon » Tue May 21, 2019 4:43 am

dileTTante wrote:Part of the proposal is that straight modules can be inserted and the curves divided into curved modules similar to the normal corner modules. The crude diagram attached is just to show the idea, not the actual dimensions or sizes. The angle of the diagonal straight from the turnout likely can be adjusted to produce a useful length for modules in both straight portions. If it's a standard module length then any standard module could be inserted. Any of the straight modules in the loop could have a turnout for spurs within the loop.
Breaking the reverse loop into component curved and straight modules hopefully makes all easier to transport and set up.
- Terry C


I like your thoughts on using standard modules, but more modules, means more track joints and more possibilities of problems.
I am tending towards fewer larger modules with straight joints at the edges wherever possible. Fewer modules with simple joins would mean a faster setup.
So I doodled some more.
Teardrop End Loop.jpg

I ended up with three modules, a filler piece, and an optional staging yard.
Module A is a two foot by four foot module with two of the corners clipped. It joins to Module B at two places with straight connections.

Module B is a two foot by four foot module with one corner clipped. It joins to Module A with two straight connections; to Module C with one straight connection and a diagonal connection made with two BG1.

Module C is a two foot by three foot module with a notch cut out of it so that it is a standard module width where it connects to the rest of the layout. It connects to Module B with one straight connection and one diagonal connection. It connects to the layout with two standard connections. It has a power connector. This module was originally four feet long, but doing a test setup for BCSME showed that they should be shortened. That extra foot means an extra module on a side. All of the Auto reverse equipment and wiring is on Module C. The big loop is the reversing section.

The filler piece just sits there. I tried to eliminate it but could not do so without a curved joint across a module edge.

The staging yard would be an optional piece that just sits on top of the modules.

Joining the module together with just UniJoiners will not be enough.
Rather than go hitech I would use Velco straps across the joints to hold things together.
Three blocks of foam glue on the top of Module A would keep the staging yard in place.

The curves on the modules are R6 with generous setbacks from both sides. We could go to R7 with a 40mm setback from the edges or if we were really crazy we could double track the loop with R6 and R7.

Modules A and B would have shields on several or all of the edges.

As the modules are just big foam blocks they would be easy to build. The problem is I don't think I have enough flex track on hand to build one of them.
Regards
Bill Dixon
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Re: TT-Tracks

Postby dileTTante » Tue May 21, 2019 5:01 pm

Bill Dixon wrote:I like your thoughts on using standard modules, but more modules, means more track joints and more possibilities of problems.
I am tending towards fewer larger modules with straight joints at the edges wherever possible. Fewer modules with simple joins would mean a faster setup.
A bit late for that - the whole layout is modules. Simplest way to faster setup is smaller layout. The layout has grown but our group hasn't.
Bill Dixon wrote:The staging yard would be an optional piece that just sits on top of the modules.
Is the staging yard worhwhile? There are two already in convenient locations. A yard in the loop would require setting up trains from outside the layout reaching over plastic shields, or setting up trains from inside and someone in the way of traffic at the entry to the layout.

But it's up to you since you are doing the work. I appreciate that you like the shape of the loop and want to use bigger curves. Probably I have some track you can use but I haven't checked yet. How much is needed?

- Terry C
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Re: TT-Tracks

Postby CFRiad » Tue May 21, 2019 7:10 pm

Bill Dixon wrote:The problem is I don't think I have enough flex track on hand to build one of them.

I have brown and grey Tillig tie strips that I can spare. Needs rails.
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Re: TT-Tracks

Postby Bill Dixon » Wed May 22, 2019 3:50 am

Quick calculations show the need for about 5 meters of track.
That would be about 8 pieces of Kuehn Modell, 640mm Flextrack Article no. 71640 at 3.63 Euros each
or the same number of Tillig pieces at a higher price.

I looked at foam today. Boy the prices have gone up. 1" blue foam in a 2' x 8' piece is $ 21.85. We really need two inch thick (and a little bit) but the thicker pieces are stepped on the edges so the pieces overlap. I don't want the stepped edges so I would buy 1" thick sheets and glue two together to make 2".
Each eight foot sheet of foam would make one module, so I need three sheets.

As to the staging yard, I was trying to find something to use the empty space inside the loop.
As I don't think we will see the run through passenger station any time soon, perhaps we could make a stub end passenger station with two platforms and four tracks.
If there were two loops and both had passenger stations, you could run passenger trains between them while other trains ran on the main. You could simulate a daily commuter service by starting with four trains in one yard. Then run them one at a time to the other yard working around other trains operating on the mainlines. Then later in the day you would run them back to the first station.

Other possible uses of the loop space: I see some sort of yard and the banner stand in one loop.
The other could have some story boards talking about TT-Scale
Regards
Bill Dixon
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Re: TT-Tracks

Postby MacG » Wed May 22, 2019 4:33 am

Nice plan for the greater radius. The idea with the commuter stub end station is really good!

It's cheaper to buy separate Tillig tie stripes and rails (item# 83025 and 83500) as the shorter Flextrack (item# 83125). But the price of the cheap Kuehn Flextrack can't be reached. The calculated price is 4,10€ for 640mm of Tillig track.

If you need only rails EuroTrainHobby has some.
Lok-n-Roll.de - we send worldwide :wink:
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Re: TT-Tracks

Postby CFRiad » Wed May 22, 2019 9:22 am

Bill Dixon wrote:Quick calculations show the need for about 5 meters of track.

I have 30 pieces of brown Tillig flex track tie strips, 22 cm each. That’s more than enough. I will donate them.
Last edited by CFRiad on Wed May 22, 2019 10:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: TT-Tracks

Postby Rich1853 » Wed May 22, 2019 10:05 am

I used this product to glue 1 inch thick XPS foam (2ft x 2ft, as the 4 x 8 foot sheet are sold in the home depot 40 miles away and my suv is too small) together, note it is butt jointed and is very strong and happy with the results.

Rich1853 wrote:Construction phase of my foam table top. Foam pieces are 2ft sq x 1in tk, (only size carried in my local Home Depot, the 4x8 ft sheets are 38 miles away and my vehicle is just too small without renting their truck). It's being held together by Glidden Gripper Primer & Sealer purchased at the Home Depot. I chosed this after doing searches on XPS foam adhesives and saw a video, water clean up too.
Here is that video comparing the different type of adhesives.
Note: it appears she is using XPS type foam not the stroyofoam brand of EPS foam, if that makes a difference.
https://youtu.be/rnOegaOKu38
20181117_074327.jpg

20181114_165552.jpg


resources/image/12690
resources/image/12691
Last edited by Rich1853 on Wed May 22, 2019 1:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Greetings from Melbourne, Florida USA
On the Space Coast of Florida
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Re: TT-Tracks

Postby railtwister » Wed May 22, 2019 11:13 am

XPS or EPS foam? The XPS is extruded, so it is one continuous piece, thus stronger. Two chemicals are mixed together in the extruder, which react with each other causing them to foam up, which creates its own pressure, forcing the foam to extrude out of the machine while it is hardening. This results in a big foam log which is cut into planks, much like lumber in a sawmill. The pink and blue (and Lowe’s green) foams are extruded, and better suited for for something that needs to be structurally strong, since they are essentially one piece.

The EPS is expanded, usually like small pellets, like the foam you will find in coffee cups and styrofoam coolers. It has little structural strength because it is made up of many tiny pellets stuck together. During the manufacturing process, it looks like sand, and is blown into a mold, then exposed to pressure & heat (usually steam), which causes the tiny grains to expand into little foam balls which stick together. It is fine for scenery shapes, where strength is not important.

Bill in FtL
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