TT Free-mo

Re: TT Free-mo

Postby j p » Thu Jul 17, 2014 5:18 am

ConducTTor wrote:BTW, if we're discussing the fact that the top of the rail can not be exact, then why does it matter what code the rail is?


For compatibility. Large flanges would not run on Code40.
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Re: TT Free-mo

Postby railtwister » Thu Jul 17, 2014 8:24 am

ConducTTor wrote:Why not just paint a red dot instead of using stickers or whatever?


Hi Alex,

Reasonable question. Some of the guys did use paint, but the adhesive labels are much faster & easier, since you don't have to wait for paint to dry and there are no brushes to clean. The labels also look neater and more professional, since they are perfectly round and uniform in size, much more so than paint splotches would be. I just wish Avery offered them with the same adhesive used in their "permanent" labels, their dots are only offered with "removable" adhesive.

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Re: TT Free-mo

Postby railtwister » Thu Jul 17, 2014 8:41 am

ConducTTor wrote:BTW, if we're discussing the fact that the top of the rail can not be exact, then why does it matter what code the rail is?


Another good question. Actually, we were discussing leveling the entire module to the rail head, along with running the rails all the way to the end of the module, instead of using bridge tracks. I'm not sure if the idea was to also eliminate the use of rail joiners at the module joints as well. Some groups (though usually in larger scales) have done this. Then there are also the Gap Master products which are designed for this as well.

The idea of the bridge tracks is to compensate for minor differences in track/module alignment that are going to be there as a result of modules being made by many modelers with different skill levels. It's not that adjusting the level of the module to the top of the railhead is impossible, it's just that in real life, doing so is a lot more difficult and time-consuming than it sounds.

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Re: TT Free-mo (Leveling the module)

Postby CN-TT » Thu Jul 17, 2014 10:07 am

CSD wrote:I understand the ease of useing small track sections to join modules, however; it doesn't stop it from being ugly.

Right, these small track sections look like you were trying to build a nice module but in the end it says "I just wasn't able to do"! You have to aligne the moduls anyway. You can't leave big gaps or even big differences in hight.
To protect the rail at the end of the track during transportation, you just have to put on a protective L-profile bolted to the endplate.

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Re: TT Free-mo

Postby MacG » Thu Jul 17, 2014 3:41 pm

At FKTT modules the rail is placed exact to the holes at the endplate. Therefor are used jigs out of wood or etched brass. Some uses Tillig- and some uses Filigran-Track. There are no problems to connect modules with each track in level. The rails are a little bit shorter than the modules. For the transport is bolted to each endplate a plate to connect a second module upside down to the other module.
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Re: TT Free-mo

Postby Bill Dixon » Mon Jul 21, 2014 9:53 pm

Interesting discussions.

I have been mulling over what I wrote and have made a few changes.
As I just made a few changes to the HO standards to convert to TT-Scale, I did not change a few things. On was the length of straight track at the edge of a module and thus the amount of straight track between two curves.
I HO this is 6" and 12". For TT I am reducing this to 5" and 10".

The module height is to the top of the rail.

I am aware of the method of running the rails to the very edge of the module however I am also aware from experience that if you do not handle the module properly EVERY time you move it, set it up, work on it, etc. that the rails are easy to damage.
For that reason I prefer to stick with with the rails ending 1" short of the module edge and using 2" fitter rails.

The only thing holding me back from building a set of module (besides money - having the family chariot in the shop four times in three weeks was expensive!!!) is track.
I need a good source of code 70 track, both flex and turnouts.
I am aware of DnS track. Is it good? Is it readily available?
I am aware of the rumblings of a new track line possibly being available soon but will it be available in time for the November show?
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Re: TT Free-mo

Postby Bill Dixon » Mon Jul 21, 2014 10:50 pm

So what can we do with our modules?
I have been designing double track modules as I do not know how long it will take to get enough modules for an effective single track set up.

I started with curved modules.
A minimum size Mini-mo 30 degree curve is just over 30" long.
TT Free-mo minimum radius 30 Degree Double Track Curve.jpg


Going slightly larger to 36" long allows for larger curves, 36" minimum.
TT Free-mo three foot 30 Degree Double Track Curve.jpg

Both are small enough to enough to easily transport and store and should not be too expensive to build.
Three of them for a right angle corner would not be too much for one modeler.
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Re: TT Free-mo

Postby Bill Dixon » Mon Jul 21, 2014 11:09 pm

So what about a stub end yard.
I have always liked the yard in John Armstrong's "Track Planning for Realistic Operation", third edition, figure 9-7 on page 84: Efficient multiple use of trackage in stub terminals.
A shortened yard would fit on two four foot modules but it works better on three modules.
TT Free-Mo Starter Set Yard.jpg

I had thought about making the third module (on the left) the start of a curve but decided against it.
Having three identical modules that with two end plates would pack into a two-foot by two-foot by four-foot block that just fits between the wheel wells of my Dodge Caravan makes an easy to transport set. Making the modules an inch or two shorter would make it fit better. 48" plus end plates and bolts heads is a tight fit!

There is room on the modules for a few additions(red lines), another yard track, a new RH crossover on the left and a LH crossover on the right. The yard and passenger tracks can be a foot longer. Running the two mainline track to the eight edge allows it to be a run through station in a larger set.
The number of tracks crossing the boundary between the center and right hand modules calls out for tracks that run right to the edge of the module. I am tempted to try that there but still use 2' rails on the mainline. That way if anything gets damaged the main lines will still be in service.

This can be built with #6 turnouts but it would be nice if the two new crossovers and the turnouts leading to the passenger station tracks (13, 15 and 19) were #8s.
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Re: TT Free-mo

Postby Bill Dixon » Mon Jul 21, 2014 11:28 pm

So you have a yard and a few curves, what do you do with them?
TT Free-Mo Starter Set.jpg

Nothing too fancy.
Make up trains in the yards. Run out to the fiddle yard on the end. Fiddle the train and then send it back.
If the end module was a turntable you could easily turn the train around.

There is enough industrial switching on the yard module to keep someone busy. More could be added.
Making up or breaking up freight trains would keep another person busy.

If the three curved modules were kept together as a set they could be sceniced with a mountain in the middle, a mine on the left side and a power plant on the right to make a Loads-In - Empties out pair of industries.

Of course more modules to lengthen the mainline would make things better.
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Re: TT Free-mo

Postby ConducTTor » Mon Jul 21, 2014 11:36 pm

I've never liked rail pieces between modules. And looking at the above "curved" modules I like them even less. It simply does not (because it isn't) look like a curve you'd ever see. With all the talk about problems with rail to the edges, how do the Germans get away with it?
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