Tillig Turnouts - General Question

Tillig Turnouts - General Question

Postby Sventton » Fri Aug 25, 2017 10:53 am

It's probably been answered a million times before, but since I do not speak German and I don't think these are translated anyway....what are the differences between the EW 1, 2,3 types, EW1 I take it is not a live frog, the other two are? What is the meaning of their turnout types "ABW" versus "IBW"? Also the EW-1 and the EW-1 "BS", they look to be identical??? Granted I am just looking at the Reynaud's website at the moment, maybe these are fully explained elsewhere. John
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Re: Tillig Turnouts - General Question

Postby MacG » Fri Aug 25, 2017 1:44 pm

The new EW1 (item 83323 and 83324) has now also an electrical conducting frog. The EW2 and 3 have a one-piece, springy closure rails. ABW (outer curve turnouts or Y-turnouts) IBW (inner curve turnouts) BS (Bausatz) means a kit (Flexi-curved-points-kit). With an EW2 or 3 kit you can build each turnout between ABW and IBW, include straight ones and individual radiuses.

Here some explanations from Tillig. https://www.tillig.com/eng/Modellgleissysteme.html
Look also under "Advanced Track" >> "Points/Crossing"

Straight Turnout - Length - Radius - Angle
EW1 - 129,5mm - 353mm - 15°
EW2 - 166mm - 631mm - 15°
EW3 - 207mm - 984mm - 12°

I hope this helps a bit. :wink:
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Re: Tillig Turnouts - General Question

Postby Arseny » Fri Aug 25, 2017 3:50 pm

It is possible to use EW1 without any layout. Just put it on the table and it will work.
If you want to use EW2 or EW3 turnouts, you are to fix them on the layout - i.e. put some ballast, glue it, etc.
They are flexible.

Also, you need under-table switching machine if you use EW2 or EW3 (such as MTB MP1 or MP5, or Tillig 86112)
If you use EW1, you can use simple switching mechanism as well, such as Tillig 83531 or so, electric or manual. It is mounted on the surface of the table. Of course, it looks ugly if you want to build nice layout, but it can be useful if you want just to put some tracks on the table (or on the floor) and run the trains.

Also, if you use EW2 or EW3, you should use some electric switcher or relay to supply the electric power by appropriate way. If you simply assemble the rail circle and connect your power supply to it, you'll get the short circuit.

But of course EW3 looks much more realistic.

As concerns IBW and ABW turnouts - they are "radius" ones. They consist of two curves. IBW are right-curved or left-curved. ABW is symmetrical - one track to the left and one track to the right. See the pictures.
Attachments
IBW.jpg
IBW
ABW.jpg
ABW
83581.jpg
Switching mechanism for the EW1 turnouts
83581.jpg (20.23 KiB) Viewed 331 times
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Re: Tillig Turnouts - General Question

Postby Sventton » Mon Aug 28, 2017 8:47 am

Thanks all, "Bausatz" = kit....see the word all the time, now I know.
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Re: Tillig Turnouts - General Question

Postby Surovi » Sun Feb 18, 2018 3:55 am

Arseny wrote:It is possible to use EW1 without any layout. Just put it on the table and it will work.
If you want to use EW2 or EW3 turnouts, you are to fix them on the layout - i.e. put some ballast, glue it, etc.
They are flexible.

Also, if you use EW2 or EW3, you should use some electric switcher or relay to supply the electric power by appropriate way. If you simply assemble the rail circle and connect your power supply to it, you'll get the short circuit.


Hi!
Which/what switches should be used and how?
I will use Tillig undermounted points motor http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/in ... wtopic=979
That`s enough?

I plan to install EW2, but I do not like complications ... after this i consider EW1 too :mrgreen:
Are they really problematic?
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Re: Tillig Turnouts - General Question

Postby Arseny » Sun Feb 18, 2018 4:27 am

EW2 is better. But they can be used only with switching machine, such as MTB MP1 or MP5, or Tillig 86112 or 86112.

The EW2 turnout must be strongly fixed on the layout (by nails or by glue), and the switching machine is mounted under the layout. You should make a slot, a gap in the tabletop, for the connecting rod.

If you do not want to make any permanent layout or to fix the turnout on it strongly, or do not want to make any gaps in the tabletop, then you should use EW1.

Also notice the electric circuit. If you use the EW2, you should use special rails with the gaps, or isolators beyond the turnout, to avoid the short circuit.
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Re: Tillig Turnouts - General Question

Postby j p » Sun Feb 18, 2018 7:41 am

Arseny wrote:EW2 is better. But they can be used only with switching machine, such as MTB MP1 or MP5, or Tillig 86112 or 86112.

The EW2 turnout must be strongly fixed on the layout (by nails or by glue), and the switching machine is mounted under the layout. You should make a slot, a gap in the tabletop, for the connecting rod.

If you do not want to make any permanent layout or to fix the turnout on it strongly, or do not want to make any gaps in the tabletop, then you should use EW1.

Also notice the electric circuit. If you use the EW2, you should use special rails with the gaps, or isolators beyond the turnout, to avoid the short circuit.


The switch motor can be placed also next to the turnout, it can be hiding in a building or rocks. It does not have to be placed under the turnout. If the space is limited, MTB's motor would be a better solution, it is smaller.
The factory assembled EW2 and EW3 are not flexible. Flexible are only turnouts made out of a kit.
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Re: Tillig Turnouts - General Question

Postby Arseny » Sun Feb 18, 2018 8:11 am

Of course they are not so flexible as flex tracks, but they still can bend a little. If you simply put them on the table they do not work. EW1s can work if you just put them on the table, to play at the evening.
Last edited by Arseny on Sun Feb 18, 2018 11:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Tillig Turnouts - General Question

Postby Surovi » Sun Feb 18, 2018 11:47 am

Thanks both!
They`ll be fixed.
This https://www.tillig.com/eng/Produkte/pro ... 86101.html will be OK?
Insulating joiners on both sides of the point, and wires from Tillig motor?
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