SazModel Wooden Tie Strips

Holes or no holes?

Holes
3
38%
No Holes
5
63%
 
Total votes : 8

SazModel Wooden Tie Strips

Postby CSD » Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:05 pm

P1010436[1].JPG

Keeping up with the turnouts I'm looking at, there can also be wooden tie flex strips. They can be made with pre-drilled holes for spikes or without for those who prefer glue or soldering to circuit board. What is your preference?
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Re: SazModel Wooden Tie Strips

Postby AstroGoat760 » Wed Apr 23, 2014 11:38 pm

I would say to go with holes, as it would work for both glue and spikes.
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Re: SazModel Wooden Tie Strips

Postby milwrd1 » Thu Apr 24, 2014 6:09 pm

AngrySailor302 wrote:I would say to go with holes, as it would work for both glue and spikes.


I would prefer holes for spikes. If you use glue for the rail, how are the holes covered :?: By ballast :?: Perhaps the holes are small enough so that they will not be seen?
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Re: SazModel Wooden Tie Strips

Postby Marquette » Thu Apr 24, 2014 7:36 pm

I would suggest no holes... spiking, last I looked into this the Gold Coast (Tillig) wheels will run on code 55 rail - but not if it's spiked, I seem to recall the clearance being *that* close.
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Re: SazModel Wooden Tie Strips

Postby richardedmonds » Fri Apr 25, 2014 3:09 am

Good point M I didn't think of that at all so thanks for being on the ball
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Re: SazModel Wooden Tie Strips

Postby areibel » Fri Apr 25, 2014 10:35 am

I'm on a Yahoo group called Proto Layouts and there's a similar discussion going on there. They're discussing using CV HO scale tie strips and Code 70 rail. To quote Tony Koester on the subject-
"On a flat railroad with large radii and no turn-back curves, you might
get away with gluing the rail to the ties. Some have, including Jack
Parker of CV.

But when a layout expands or contracts, as it will, the roadbed
movement can cause huge stresses on the rail, especially in tight
curves.

That's why I insist on using small spikes to hold it in place.

Granted, Micro Engineering flex track doesn't have metal fasteners,
but every tie secures the rail with plastic spikes.

Is that better or worse than bonding the rail? I'm not willing to find
out.

Tony Koester"
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Re: SazModel Wooden Tie Strips

Postby Marquette » Fri Apr 25, 2014 11:19 am

I'm curious now: Filigran uses code 55 rail, no? How do they attach the rail to the ties, such that Tillig (etc) wheels will run on their track? Or is using finer wheelsets a requirement for using Filigran's track?

Interesting to ponder what Tony Koester wrote there, so here's my first question that came up re that: what is his concern in specific, that the rail will simply "fly away" and pull up, or that it will get out of gauge? If the former - use better glue. If only the latter, perhaps a prototypical solution - gauge bars. Solve the problem AND have more prototypical track!

Would gluing + spiking from only the outside be sufficient?

Not trying to be too humorous here, I'm genuinely curious, since I've heard plenty of positive discussion of gluing with a sufficiently satisfactory glue (e.g. pliobond). And to me it would seem to be insufficient to simply spike without any other means of attachment, unless you really are going to spike it at nearly every tie?

Granted I don't yet have first hand experience with this, but everything I've so far discovered suggests to me that spiking is not necessary and is more an aesthetic thing.
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Re: SazModel Wooden Tie Strips

Postby j p » Fri Apr 25, 2014 11:55 am

Filigran's EU-style bolts and tie plates are modified to handle the BTTB wheels with large flanges.
Therefore, it is important to place those tiny pieces of plastic correctly, otherwise it does not work. (I had to use a magnifying glass for that, maybe I need to visit an optitian and get glasses)
See the detail on the picture, the bolt is only on the outher side of the rail, because the BTTB wheels would hit it if it was also on the inner side.
It is 100% possible to make NA style spikes in a similar way out of plastic. Yes, the mould is expensive, but it can be really tiny to keep the cost down and then manufactured on a table top injection moulding machine. (we had one in the plastic department, but unfortunately, it was the only machine they decided not to sell. Otherwise I'd buy it)

(edit: this is used for wooden ties)

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Re: SazModel Wooden Tie Strips

Postby areibel » Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:16 pm

The Proto Layout is a group worth joining, they do get heavily into operations sometimes (and I have about zero interest in that), but some of the actual modeling info is worth it.
Personally I think spikes on the outside would work along with glue, if the rail does move it still can't go far. I would think the problem would be one rail coming loose on a curve and either spreading the gauge or tightening it up.
Worst comes to worst if there's a problem area that wouldn't hold I'd use a PC board tie every so often and solder the rails down to it to keep it in gauge.
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Re: SazModel Wooden Tie Strips

Postby j p » Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:29 pm

areibel wrote:The Proto Layout is a group worth joining, they do get heavily into operations sometimes (and I have about zero interest in that), but some of the actual modeling info is worth it.
Personally I think spikes on the outside would work along with glue, if the rail does move it still can't go far. I would think the problem would be one rail coming loose on a curve and either spreading the gauge or tightening it up.
Worst comes to worst if there's a problem area that wouldn't hold I'd use a PC board tie every so often and solder the rails down to it to keep it in gauge.


Maybe the picture is not clear?
There is a spike on the inner side too! Only the EU bolt is removed. There is enough space for a spike - if that spike's head is thin enough. (which is not the case of the metal spikes available from the shops - as far as I know)
I'll try to take a high magnification picture with the rail in it.
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