Roco Couplers and Tillig's

Re: Roco Couplers and Tillig's

Postby ConducTTor » Fri Apr 07, 2017 10:43 am

I believe those couplers on the tanks are like that for one very specific reason: in an accident, help keep the cars coupled and not allow a knuckle to puncture the tank in front of it. Ultimately this helps with models (just wanted to give the prototype reason). I personally prefer smaller, lower profile couplers on my models for a more realistic look - I'd rather spend more time on the track to make sure it's as good as possible.
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Re: Roco Couplers and Tillig's

Postby sacto-tt » Sun Apr 09, 2017 12:50 pm

Those are known as double shelf couplers and as ConducTTor pointed out are to prevent uncoupling and puncture of adjacent cars.
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Re: Roco Couplers and Tillig's

Postby WillYart » Tue Apr 11, 2017 6:17 am

dileTTante wrote:It looks like the extra feature on Kuehn couplers limits the vertical movement between couplers. This helps keep them together on uneven track. But experience has made me suspect that if the track is particularly bad, one car can lift end of the other car and derail it. When Tibi got serious about leveling our TT Tracks layout uncoupling became a rare occurrence no matter what type was used. I like Roco because a car can be lifted directly off the track while coupled, same as with knuckle type couplers.
-Terry C


Yeah track work has to be particularly awful for that to happen. I'm talking about tracks laid down on carpeting with trestles made of legos (true story). No problem like that on my current layout, everything was carefully engineered with heights determined in a spreadsheet beforehand and meticulously implemented.

I agree that couplers allowing cars to simply be lifted off the track are great. Also makes for less messy derailments when they happen (human error).
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Re: Roco Couplers and Tillig's

Postby WillYart » Tue Apr 11, 2017 6:26 am

j p wrote:
WillYart wrote:Yes I tear all that unfamiliar stuff off of the car, there are bits and pieces of it scattered on the floor. I don't miss it at all, it looks ugly to me. I mount the Microscale couplers directly, rigidly, to the end of the car.

Since the Microscale couplers are rigid I need a little more space between the cars, so sometimes I have to snip the bumpers off of them.


A TT-club in Prague has been using MTL 1015 and 1016 couplers for European models since 2005.
Their www page is in Czech, but the pictures could be used for inspiration

- Jan

http://www.kzm-praha.cz/rady/sprahla.htm
Image
Image


No problem, I put it through Google Translate. That looks good with the truck mounted couplers. That would be difficult for me to accomplish since I'm following the USA NMRA standard which specifies that coupler centers should be 7.14mm above the railhead, which is generally up into the body of the car, for me so far anyway.

Oh. Coincidentally I'm planning be going through Prague in the summer. Perhaps I can pay them a visit if they are available, that would be so much fun. Also I hope to visit Church of St. Cyril and St. Methodius in Prague where the courageous assassins of Reinhard Heydrich were attacked. I want to feel the bullet holes below the stained glass window. (Along with many other historic sites there). I wonder if there are many English speaking people there, as I do not know Czech unfortunately.
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Re: Roco Couplers and Tillig's

Postby Rich1853 » Thu Aug 23, 2018 2:38 pm

Today I received a ROCO BR233 BAHNBAU 36283, and of course the couplers to my Tillig rolling stock don't mate. The process of changing the Fleischmann 9545 to Tillig / Kuehn 74900 was somewhat of a challenge with my right hand still very weak from a stroke and I couldn't have none it without the supplied diagrams and some recently purchased tools,(spring loaded tweezers), Noch foam repair stand, Harbor Freight helping hand, double sided tape. The first one took about an hour, I was going give up and ask for assistance from this group, than I remembered the double sided tape, the second one took less than 15 minutes.
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Re: Roco Couplers and Tillig's

Postby Rich1853 » Fri Aug 24, 2018 9:23 pm

Sventton wrote:Something tells me that the Tillig coupler is not going to be a fit for that Roco coupler pocket, or am I wrong? I should say that I have replaced many Zeuke also, just not the type that are connected by a wire beneath the car's underframe. I don't find any of the Euro couplers as "ideal" either, but I want to standardize as much as I can. The newer Tilligs at least look somewhat like a coupler which you could not say with a straight face for the Zeuke or BTTB versions. :lol:


That Tillig coupler that's in your photo with the Schiebewandwagen (sliding wall boxcar) is the wrong one. The correct Tillig part number is 04900 ( it is straight across not right angled, attached photo) and it is the one I used in the Roco BR233 locomotive in the post above.
Attachments
tt74900_kuehn-74900-grosspackung-kurzkupplungen.jpg
74900
tt74900_kuehn-74900-grosspackung-kurzkupplungen.jpg (17.25 KiB) Viewed 134 times
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Re: Roco Couplers and Tillig's

Postby Rich1853 » Sat Aug 25, 2018 4:24 am

Sventton wrote:Yes, I have replaced many of the older BTTB type with the newer Tillig short coupler. Now if I could do the same with the Zeuke ones.


Can you give me the Tillig's part number of that BTTB to Tillig / Kuehn 74900 coupler. BTTB couplers are listed as short (p/n 08823) and long type (08824) with out any dimensions, so how can you tell the difference, (buy them both I guess).
Alternate a part number from BTTB (old style with spring) to a NEM pocket.
Attachments
20180825_043345.jpg
ASG boxcar
20180825_043345.jpg
Tillig boxcar C3582
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