Rio Grande Boxcar with reduced size flanges

Re: Rio Grande Boxcar with reduced size flanges

Postby scaro » Thu Jan 21, 2010 7:24 pm

TTQuebec wrote:
scaro wrote:The tantalising thing is that if your 'TT' gets slightly bigger, you can use the 8mm wheels done for 3mm in the UK by the likes of Ian Osborne and others, which are not only finescale, but cheap as chips.


This may sound somewhat ironic...

...but there's too much available in N. Am. proto TT in 1:120 for me to consider changing the scale.

Ian stocks a 7mm TT wheel but it is not finescale, though the flange is quite fine. I think this was a run organised by the late John Fisher.
Ben


The 8mm wheel works out to 37.8" (TT scale inches), so a bit big for N. Am. freight or pax cars in 1:120; the 7mm would be almost exact for a 33" wheel. So that could be a useful thing.

. . .

EDIT: Also, Ben: I took the calipers to the GC truck, and the wheelbase is almost bang-on 5'6".



No, I wouldn't seriously advocate an American modeller even think of stepping outside 1:120 . . . the greater availability of wheels in 3mm though is frustrating, and for an Australian modeller, or indeed anyone thinking of a prototype which follows both UK and US practice, like a lot of South America or South East Asia, where you're going to have to make all your own stock anyway, it's worth having a serious think about scale.

When Randy Gordon Gilmore milled my spoked 7.5mm wheels we adhered to the width and flange size of modern British N wheels and they look quite finescale. They are .065" so code 65 I guess, and look nice. The only other spoked wheels of that diameter I can find are code 88 wheels by the Australian manufacturer, Steam Era Models, which are in reality for H0 narrow gauge and a bit coarse for TT. Does it matter? I would have thought so, but all those John Huxtable models used code 88 Australian wheels by either SEM or their predecessors, and he seems to have achieved a good look with them.

The 7mm wheel plastic wheel from Ian Osborne is only a wheel, you need your own 1.5mm axles. Tell me if you want his details and I'll send them privately. Personally I suspect you might find it a bit of a retrograde step, I can't put my hands on the two or three I had but the wheel face was a bit rough.

A better 7mm wheel is the Parkside Dundas metal one made for British N. It's .078", but comes on a 1.5mm dia N gauge axle so needs to be removed and put on a longer axle.

Thanks for confirming the wheelbase of the GC truck.

Ben
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Re: Rio Grande Boxcar with reduced size flanges

Postby chrishappe » Wed Jan 27, 2010 12:59 am

A bit late with my replies but here goes. I turned the flanges down on the axles just as they come, but I don't cut them down I file them. You can use a lathe, but quicker is to just chuck them in a cordless drill and file them down with a small needle file. Chuck one wheel and file the other one. Just don't put too much load on it when you are filing. Gently works best. Also be careful doing this, it is best to run the drill in reverse and hold the file so that if it snags in the chuck it throws it away from you, not at your chest.

I have also been experimenting with HP wheels in Gold Coast trucks. They look pretty good but the problem is Gold Coast use pointed axles and HP use blunt axles. Two choices are to make or buy new pointy axles which is not easy, or drill out the side frames to accept the blunt axles. This works but they don't roll quite as freely as the originals do.
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Re: Rio Grande Boxcar with reduced size flanges

Postby ConducTTor » Wed Jan 27, 2010 1:28 am

chrishappe wrote:just chuck them in a cordless drill and file them down with a small needle file. Chuck one wheel and file the other one.


Heeeeeeeeyyyyyy! That's great - thanks for the idea!
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Re: Rio Grande Boxcar with reduced size flanges

Postby ctxmf74 » Wed Jan 27, 2010 1:51 am

chrishappe wrote: I don't cut them down I file them. You can use a lathe, but quicker is to just chuck them in a cordless drill and file them down with a small needle file.


Hi Chris, Do you think it would be possible to turn down Tillig loco flanges in a similiar manner? I'd like to build some code 55 track with HP sized frog flangeways but I'll need some kind of decent running loco eventually. Does anyone make replacement wheels with smaller flanges for for Tillig drives? Maybe a job for NWSL? .......dave
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Re: Rio Grande Boxcar with reduced size flanges

Postby scaro » Wed Jan 27, 2010 7:10 am

What I'm noticing from TT locos on ebay is that many of the Berliner Bahnen and Tilligs seem to have a metal tyred wheel with some kind of a plastic insert in the centre. I suspect if one wants to mill these one is going to have to be very careful, or the plastic will heat up and warp?

Has anyone done it?

Ben
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Re: Rio Grande Boxcar with reduced size flanges

Postby Andy Carlson » Sun May 25, 2014 11:56 pm

I am REAL LATE to this party, but I have a suggestion which some folks might find helpful in reducing large flanges on wheels. I model in TTn3 (actually TTn42) using N scale mechanisms for 120:1 narrow gauge. Rivarossi steam engine flanges are deep as used on the Atlas brand of steam locomotives. I successfully reduced my flanges by placing one driver pair which I intended to reduce the flange diameter into an Atlas steam chassis with all of the driver axles removed, but with the idler gears intact.

Next, I take a dremel tool with a cut-off disc and place the face of the disc against one of the flanges. You can find the sweet spot between the fastest speed spinning the wheel (where the flange is located perpendicular to the diameter line of the disc, the line which goes through the radius center) to the slowest (where the flange bears against the disc face parrallel to the axis). When the good spot is found, the driver wheel will slowly turn, and the trick is to keep the speed consistant. Check periodically with your dial calipers. I did 3 driver pairs this way in under a half hour. By going slow, the heat build-up is minimized.

I have tried this technique for freight car wheels in a truck frame. The speed wants to go crazy fast, so I intend to place some grease in the bearing cones to increase the friction, slowing the the wheel speed.

It is better to not rush the grinding rate. I am quite pleased with my new 0.023" flanges, which clears the ME code 40 flex track.

-Andy
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Re: Rio Grande Boxcar with reduced size flanges

Postby CSD » Mon May 26, 2014 12:35 am

If you are able, it would be great to see some pictures, Andy.
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Re: Rio Grande Boxcar with reduced size flanges

Postby ConducTTor » Mon May 26, 2014 6:45 pm

A video would be even better!
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Re: Rio Grande Boxcar with reduced size flanges

Postby Graandpa » Wed Feb 03, 2016 3:32 pm

NWSL will do wheelsets with or without gears for a small set up fee if they do not have to do any machining. I have some (HO) 26/.088 wheelsets geared for their auxiliary gear box to repower some HP E-units. I had intended to use their Flea ll, but it's not available now. I have made some 1:1 transfer gearboxes so I can use the 16 x 30 can motor instead.

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Re: Rio Grande Boxcar with reduced size flanges

Postby areibel » Wed Feb 03, 2016 6:36 pm

Welcome to TT Nut Graandpa!
I'd be interested in hearing more about your E unit project. Could you start a new topic and let us know more? I've got a couple that could use a little update!
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