Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Rwy

Re: Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Rwy

Postby Bernd » Thu Nov 05, 2015 6:01 pm

gerhard_k wrote:Congratulations! And done with a 40-foot car and the SW, not mining-scale equipment! :clap:


Thank you very much.

As a point of info, when you observe the couplers during the run, how much of their vertical engagement is used up in the transitions, i.e., how close do they come to vertically unlatching?


There is very little to no vertical movement. I am having some problems with the MTB couplers that come with the engine. There's some bind in them that I didn't remove completely and the plastic whisker that is supposed to keep the coupler closed are to weak to do their job. I plan on replacing them with Kadee couplers.

I was able to get the vertical transition pretty smooth. Once I get the coupler fixed I'll do a video of the coupler action plus some pictures of the transition. Hopefully be this weekend.

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Re: Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Rwy

Postby ConducTTor » Thu Nov 05, 2015 6:21 pm

:clap: well done
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Re: Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Rwy

Postby Bernd » Thu Nov 05, 2015 8:16 pm

ConducTTor wrote::clap: well done


Thank you very much Alex. More to come.

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Re: Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Rwy

Postby Bernd » Fri Nov 06, 2015 12:06 pm

This post will give the details of what lead up to the video of the SW1200 and boxcar.

This past Monday I received my order of Smooth-On 305 resin casting material.

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Mixing of part A and part B to a 1:1 ration in the plastic cups I can cast three section. Approximately 36". I'm using the "squish method" of casting the sections. It's basically filling the mold to over flow and laying a piece of plastic on top with a weight to give a nice smooth even surface on the back of the casting.

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When the resin turns white, the 305 takes about 20 minuets to setup for de-molding, you can take the casting out of the mold.

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The casting on the left is still in the mold with the piece of plastic on it. The middle one has the plastic top removed and the one on the right has been "carefully" removed from the mold.

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All three have been de-molded. Notice the flash that is left on. This can be removed with a sharp hobby knife after the resin has cured for an hour or so.

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The castings are the consistency of taffy when first taken out of the mold. Notice how it droops over the mold. Don't let it harden in this position because it will keep it's shape.

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After a days casting session I had enough to do the length of run for the climb up the hill.

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The resin sections where pinned down using ordinary pins. Also the foam is attached with "T" pins. The reason for this is that I didn't want to glue everything down and then find out it wouldn't work. I didn't want the mess of having rip up glued down foam, cork or track sections. As luck would have it, the designed worked out.

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[img]/http://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/TTnut/Diorama/dio-51.JPG[img]

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A question was asked about vertical transition. Formulas were give to figure this out. I used common sense and my eye ball to sand the foam to a nice vertical transition.

Top Transition

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Bottom Transition

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Coupler relationship at top of vertical transition.

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Close up shot.

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Coupler relationship at bottom of vertical transition.

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Close up shot.

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A very close up shot of the track sections.

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In not wanting to glue anything down permanent I needed a way to hold the code55 track on the track sections. I tried ordinary pins at first and found that the flanges hit the pin heads killing the Angels that were dancing on the head of the pin. What to do? Well, cut the head of the pin of, squeeze a small portion flat and bend at a 90° angle.

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Needless to say the Angles were happy.

Here are a couple of pictures with the modified pins holding down the track.

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So, what's next. Well it's all going to be disassembled and now glue will be used to permanently glue all the pieces in place. I'm still trying to decide if I will use PC ties or Pliobond to fasten the rail. Perhaps both.

More to come. When can be anybody's guess.

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Last edited by Bernd on Sat Mar 18, 2017 4:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Rwy

Postby ConducTTor » Sat Nov 07, 2015 12:05 am

To fasten the rail - seems to me the pins you made would work just fine through the sleepers.
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Re: Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Rwy

Postby Bernd » Sat Nov 07, 2015 8:45 am

ConducTTor wrote:To fasten the rail - seems to me the pins you made would work just fine through the sleepers.


The pins are a little to big in diameter to go through a tie and look correct. I think I'm going to go for a PC tie every so often and use Pliobond on the rail bottoms. I'll use the pins to hold the rail down to help with the soldering and while the glue dries. The pins are actually bigger than a "Micro Spike".

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Re: Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Rwy

Postby Tom Dempsey » Sat Nov 07, 2015 4:44 pm

Pins can be cut from music wire, it's a bit less expensive than pins and also you can get a smaller diameter.
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Re: Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Rwy

Postby Bernd » Sat Nov 07, 2015 7:17 pm

Tom Dempsey wrote:Pins can be cut from music wire, it's a bit less expensive than pins and also you can get a smaller diameter.


Isn't that a hard wire? Kind of hard to flatten the end down. The pins came a thousand to the box and were quite cheap. I'm only going to use them for temporary hold down.

I had thought of using .010" phosphor bronze wire though.

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Re: Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Rwy

Postby TinGoat » Mon Nov 09, 2015 2:38 pm

I've heard of guys making rail spikes from staples.

They'd take a row of staples and use a cut-off disk in a Dremel to cut a bunch at a time.

staple-spike.png


If you can find staples that are long enough.

Or you can go to a printing supply and see if you can get a spool of staple wire and cut/bend individual spikes.

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Re: Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Rwy

Postby Bernd » Mon Nov 09, 2015 4:00 pm

TinGoat wrote:I've heard of guys making rail spikes from staples.

They'd take a row of staples and use a cut-off disk in a Dremel to cut a bunch at a time.

staple-spike.png


If you can find staples that are long enough.

Or you can go to a printing supply and see if you can get a spool of staple wire and cut/bend individual spikes.


I've read of staples being used before. I would think they are a bit to big for TT gauge. At least the staples I've seen.

Bend-snip-bend-snip-bend-snip-bend-snip


You've given me an idea for a tool here. :thumbup:

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