OK Tillig! What's up?!

Re: OK Tillig! What's up?!

Postby BTTB Fan » Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:06 pm

It's a good argument you are making in favour of the digital decoder/sound. What made me drool though is the glimpse of the yard at 1:53 - I wich I had the space to build something like that!
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Re: OK Tillig! What's up?!

Postby ConducTTor » Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:58 pm

I want DCC for one thing and one thing only. Separately moving locos on the same line.

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Re: OK Tillig! What's up?!

Postby CSD » Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:04 pm

Totally! Run the trains, not the tracks!
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Re: OK Tillig! What's up?!

Postby AstroGoat760 » Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:25 pm

For me, conversion is an all-or-nothing, and with the design of the HP products steam locomotives, and their tenders converting them to DCC is impossible to do without risking major damage to either the loco and/or the tender, as the boiler shell is solid, with very, very little free space between the motor and the shell. Even if I could get a card in that small space, heat dissipation would be very poor.

The tender is a solid hunk of bakelite, which does not take cutting too nicely. Cracks may form from any cuts made and eventually break the tender shell apart.

Without pulling the old motors out, and replacing them with smaller can motors, many of my Rokal and Zeuke steamers would not have enough space to install a card and dissipate heat well.

I guess I am the odd man out on this, but I will stick with DC and block control.
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Re: OK Tillig! What's up?!

Postby ConducTTor » Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:27 pm

AngrySailor302 wrote:For me, conversion is an all-or-nothing, and with the design of the HP products steam locomotives, and their tenders converting them to DCC is impossible to do without risking major damage to either the loco and/or the tender, as the boiler shell is solid, with very, very little free space between the motor and the shell. Even if I could get a card in that small space, heat dissipation would be very poor.

The tender is a solid hunk of bakelite, which does not take cutting too nicely. Cracks may form from any cuts made and eventually break the tender shell apart.

Without pulling the old motors out, and replacing them with smaller can motors, many of my Rokal and Zeuke steamers would not have enough space to install a card and dissipate heat well.

I guess I am the odd man out on this, but I will stick with DC and block control.


I've seen pics of people fitting those chips in the craziest places. Next time I come across one I'll post it.
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Re: OK Tillig! What's up?!

Postby BTTB Fan » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:48 am

ConducTTor wrote:I want DCC for one thing and one thing only. Separately moving locos on the same line...

Agreed, but on the other hand, nothing makes you pull your hair out more than watching a train collision sending your $300-$500 locomotive tumbling off the module on the floor...
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Re: OK Tillig! What's up?!

Postby ConducTTor » Fri Oct 30, 2009 10:41 am

BTTB Fan wrote:
ConducTTor wrote:I want DCC for one thing and one thing only. Separately moving locos on the same line...

Agreed, but on the other hand, nothing makes you pull your hair out more than watching a train collision sending your $300-$500 locomotive tumbling off the module on the floor...


The perils of railroading. We ARE modeling real life no? :mrgreen:
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Re: OK Tillig! What's up?!

Postby areibel » Fri Oct 30, 2009 12:06 pm

AngrySailor302 wrote:The tender is a solid hunk of bakelite, which does not take cutting too nicely. Cracks may form from any cuts made and eventually break the tender shell apart.

Hi Sailor,
You have one of the older style HP 1600 tenders that is the plastic block. The later ones were built different, they use cast metal sides and top over a block of wood. It wouldn't take much to mill or chisel out a spot inside the wood block to mount a chip.
Then it comes down to the inherent HP problem- the axle insulated drivers. They are a bugger for shorting against the side rods or valve gear. It's bad enough when it stops the train, but if you start frying decoders- Not good!
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Re: OK Tillig! What's up?!

Postby AstroGoat760 » Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:31 pm

In order to do such precision work, I have to plan it out about 3 days in advance, and CAREFULLY change my medication schedule, as some of the meds make my hands tremble a bit, hence the sloppy handrail painting on my 25T Plymouth. Some of the meds that cause my vision to blur and sometimes see double cannot be stopped overnight, the "down cycle" is rough, and leaves me prone to blacking out at times.

I can still function during some blackouts, but I have no working memory of things said or done - I roasted a 25 lb. turkey at 3am once and I do not remember even making baking it, nor dumping the entire bird into the rat cage.

Enough on that tangent.

I am literally afraid to try to chisel away at the HP products tenders I have.
I would hate to destroy an American made model train item, period. The same goes for German, and other European trains.
Aside from the improvements in couplers and lighting, I desire to stick to how the trains were made to operate in the 1940s.

I guess I am just old fashioned...
I am still convinced that I was born way the hell too late. I should have been born between 1880-1940.
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Re: OK Tillig! What's up?!

Postby ConducTTor » Wed Mar 31, 2010 2:50 am

CSD wrote:recommend that you avoid Digitrax ..... Every other one has programming issues or output problems.......


Can you give me some specifics? I have 3 passenger wagons with driving cabs that I want to chip so the lights match the loco's lights and in general are not on 100% of the time. Since all I want to do is turn lights on and off I figure a cheapo decoder will do the job. I will NOT spend $40+ to have light functions in a wagon....

I'm looking at these right now (about $22 online) as they are NEM 651 and will be a quick drop-in http://www.digitrax.com/prd_mobdec_dz125IN.php

If I decide to get them maybe I'll throw one in a loco and see if I experience the same problems you did.
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