Mechanism Kits For Your Projects

Would you buy an affordable mechanism for your scratchbuilt project?

Poll ended at Wed Sep 14, 2011 12:25 am

Yes!
12
100%
No.
0
No votes
 
Total votes : 12

Re: Mechanism Kits For Your Projects

Postby areibel » Wed Aug 31, 2011 3:16 pm

I'd say Heck Yeah!
The 8 foot wheelbase will be perfect for almost any switcher from EMD, Alco, Baldwin?Lima, etc.. and actually they could be covered with only two or three sideframes. I know they're not included, but it wouldn't be impossible to bash one or go the Shapeways route.
The 9 footers will be great for almost anything that's a four axle EMD, and that's a lot!
One question though, can you tell me what your axle diameter is- 2mm? Or are you using a molded axle like the Piko Herculese?
Thanks!
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Re: Mechanism Kits For Your Projects

Postby Carsten » Wed Aug 31, 2011 3:25 pm

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Re: Mechanism Kits For Your Projects

Postby CSD » Wed Aug 31, 2011 5:32 pm

areibel wrote:...One question though, can you tell me what your axle diameter is- 2mm? Or are you using a molded axle like the Piko Herculese?...


It looks to be a moulded axle. The thickness of the axle throught the wheel is about 2.65 mm (about 0.1"). I would have to ask to be specific, but definately bigger than 2 mm. I did not try to hard to remove the wheels as this is my only sample and those buggers are really on there.

IMG_1250.jpg


Carsten wrote:It looks like MTB ;-)...


Good eye. Unlike some of the other manufacturers, MTB was receptive to making parts available for other projects.
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Re: Mechanism Kits For Your Projects

Postby railtwister » Wed Aug 31, 2011 9:03 pm

Hi CSD,

The pictures are a great help, thanks for posting them. Most American diesels used 36"-40" diameter wheels with the 40" being more common on freight road engines. This would be roughly from 7.5 to 10mm on a TT model. As stated earlier in this thread, an 8 foot wheelbase will pretty much be limited to switcher prototypes. The pictures don't show how the truck would attach to the frame, is there a clip or something that will hold it in place, or is their chassis designed as a plastic molding that the truck snaps into? The lack of traction tires is not such a bad thing, my experience with them in other gauges is that in the long they cause problems. Most decent quality N scale locos do not have them, and they seem to pull adequately. I do have concerns about two things; the axle bearings look like a plastic axle riding in a plastic truck frame bearing (plastic on plastic is not the best situation for reduced friction or wear), plus the design of the truck is such that as it pivots, the worm housing will require more clearance inside the body, which may be a problem in hood units (which most switchers are). This last potential problem has been discussed before, although it was in reference to other manufacturer's power trucks.

Did you acquire a complete loco for evaluation from this manufacturer, or just the parts in the photo? I would be interested in seeing how the loco's low speed performance is (indicating axle bearing friction), along with it's overall longevity (wear).
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Re: Mechanism Kits For Your Projects

Postby ConducTTor » Wed Aug 31, 2011 9:23 pm

Overall regarding parts I would look at what everyone is working on as a first indicator. My U Boat and the following GE model are already designed for other parts. However, there may still be a need for parts for the Society's project, I don't know where SD80Mac's project is but maybe he will require parts as well. I also plan on doing a chassis for Norkin's SD45 etch and will be open to using any parts that I can make work.
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Re: Mechanism Kits For Your Projects

Postby CSD » Thu Sep 01, 2011 11:54 am

railtwister wrote:... Most American diesels used 36"-40" diameter wheels with the 40" being more common on freight road engines. This would be roughly from 7.5 to 10mm on a TT model. As stated earlier in this thread, an 8 foot wheelbase will pretty much be limited to switcher prototypes...


Thank you!

railtwister wrote:... The pictures don't show how the truck would attach to the frame, is there a clip or something that will hold it in place, or is their chassis designed as a plastic molding that the truck snaps into?...


There is a clip. As stated before a chassis will not be included in this kit. I could include some kind of template and instruction for attachment.

railtwister wrote:... the axle bearings look like a plastic axle riding in a plastic truck frame bearing (plastic on plastic is not the best situation for reduced friction or wear)...


PIKO's basic line of locomotives have the same kind of configuration and seem to run smoothly. Additionally, all the modern models in my collection have plastic gears running on plastic shafts. I don't want to seem dismissive of your concern, But I have yet to run into any problems with this kind of configuration.

railtwister wrote:... plus the design of the truck is such that as it pivots, the worm housing will require more clearance inside the body, which may be a problem in hood units (which most switchers are). This last potential problem has been discussed before, although it was in reference to other manufacturer's power trucks...


This is a concern that keeps cropping up, yet few have actually done the work. I have said it before "it will fit". Please see the picture, which features the newest PIKO locomotive, a kit T435 (motored using Tillig parts) and a Tillig T435 all sitting comfortably on the old BTTB standard radius. The problem with centered gear towers is that the distances between them don't leave any room for the motor, fly wheels and shafts in any but large locomotives.
IMG_1253.jpg


railtwister wrote:... Did you acquire a complete loco for evaluation from this manufacturer, or just the parts in the photo? I would be interested in seeing how the loco's low speed performance is (indicating axle bearing friction), along with it's overall longevity (wear).


I did. You can see the review here: mtb-csd-cd-t478-3-753-goggles-t1248.html. The original fly wheel (that these are equipped with) did not meet MTB's standards, so I am waiting for the improved one before making final comment. As they are now they operate quite well. Any improvement will only enhance that.

ConducTTor wrote:Overall regarding parts I would look at what everyone is working on as a first indicator. My U Boat and the following GE model are already designed for other parts. However, there may still be a need for parts for the Society's project, I don't know where SD80Mac's project is but maybe he will require parts as well. I also plan on doing a chassis for Norkin's SD45 etch and will be open to using any parts that I can make work.


Thanks.
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Re: Mechanism Kits For Your Projects

Postby ConducTTor » Thu Sep 01, 2011 1:08 pm

BTW, I just read the title of this post again. Can you quantify "affordable"?
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Re: Mechanism Kits For Your Projects

Postby CSD » Thu Sep 01, 2011 3:08 pm

^^^ Yup. If you look at the first post, I'm looking at around $70. Let turn this one around for everyone too.

Everyone, what do you think is a reasonable price for what you have seen?

... Free is not an option.
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Re: Mechanism Kits For Your Projects

Postby ConducTTor » Thu Sep 01, 2011 4:03 pm

CSD wrote:I'm looking at around $70


At this price, I'll make it a point to design everything (after U30B and B23-7) with MTB parts. Can you give motor dimensions - specifically height and width - I don't care about length.
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Re: Mechanism Kits For Your Projects

Postby richardedmonds » Thu Sep 01, 2011 4:10 pm

CSD wrote:^^^ Yup. If you look at the first post, I'm looking at around $70. Let turn this one around for everyone too.

Everyone, what do you think is a reasonable price for what you have seen?

... Free is not an option.


I think $70 is good, nothing is cheap nowdays and if it works well it would probably still interest me at twice that. In TT we do not have the option to be fussy about prices, if it is TT, and is good, and is needed, and can be made available, then within reason to me price is not really a problem. We are talking unique and specialist stuff here after all
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