lok and roll f3

Re: lok and roll f3

Postby jmass » Wed Apr 11, 2012 2:44 pm

once we hear back on the bid we placed on this house, then ill know excactly how much room ill have to build a permanent layout. until then, its table top tt. friggin banks!
User avatar
jmass
 
Posts: 817
Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2009 6:39 pm

Re: lok and roll f3

Postby railtwister » Wed Apr 11, 2012 3:11 pm

In the latest video showing the trains on the bedding track, the loco slows to almost a stop in the near curve, and at the same time there is a humming sound. Did you control the loco at that point, or did it execute the stop by itself? Also, is the hum coming from the loco, power pack or some other source, such as fluorescent lights?

Conductor is right, just the addition of the trees on an otherwise bare table makes a big difference!

Bill in FL
railtwister
 
Posts: 723
Images: 4
Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 8:39 am
Location: Oakland Park (Ft. Lauderdale), FL, USA

Re: lok and roll f3

Postby jmass » Wed Apr 11, 2012 3:31 pm

Bill, i slowed the train down to a stop at that point purposly. the hum is from the loco, which gets louder as you slow it down. as i dont have anything to compare it with, i am guessing that this is due to the design. i can only run it for two or three minuits before it starts to act up.
User avatar
jmass
 
Posts: 817
Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2009 6:39 pm

Re: lok and roll f3

Postby jmass » Wed Apr 11, 2012 8:52 pm

something a little different.
User avatar
jmass
 
Posts: 817
Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2009 6:39 pm

Re: lok and roll f3

Postby CSD » Wed Apr 11, 2012 10:00 pm

In reference to the hum: Are you running a DC locomotive on DCC?
Mark
//S
User avatar
CSD
 
Posts: 2275
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 1:31 pm
Location: St. Albert, Alberta, Canada

Re: lok and roll f3

Postby dileTTante » Wed Apr 11, 2012 10:14 pm

Just watched the last video of the F3 this time with sound on. My first theory about the hum is that the loco doesn't like the sharp curves of the bedding track. Higher speed with more power gets it through but when the loco is run slow there is less power and the motor is ready to stall. That is probably because the motor is working too hard and that's probably because the drive is binding on the curves, perhaps from the U-joints between the trucks and the motor shaft. Just guessing. Haven't seen F3 interior but I have seen one other LokNRol mechanism.

Second guess is that the problem is with the trucks and the wheel flanges are binding on the sharp curves. I'm thinking the problem is the same with my Tillig BR01 which has drive wheels at each end of the tender connected by gear to the motor shaft. The wheels have some side play but maybe not enough, so the long rigid wheelbase may not be good on tight curves. For comparison the Tillig BR50 has all four tender axles driving but the wheelbase isn't rigid. Front pair and rear pair are in separate trucks which can swivel a bit. That loco has no problem with tight curves. The photo of the bottom of the F3 shows that there is probably no side play at all in the driving wheels.

Hope I'm not creating confusion by misguided speculation. One test would be to run F3 on gentler curves, slowly,
dileTTante
 
Posts: 833
Joined: Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:37 am
Location: Vancouver British Columbia

Re: lok and roll f3

Postby railtwister » Wed Apr 11, 2012 11:04 pm

jmass wrote:Bill, i slowed the train down to a stop at that point purposly. the hum is from the loco, which gets louder as you slow it down. as i dont have anything to compare it with, i am guessing that this is due to the design. i can only run it for two or three minuits before it starts to act up.


Very strange, since the hum is still there when the train stops, indicating power is still getting to the motor. Running an analog loco without a decoder on a DCC system using "zero stretching" will make a hum in the motor even when the train is stopped (which is why this practice is not encouraged and can damage the motor). It also could happen if there is still voltage on the rails, just not enough to make the train move, especially if it's a DC power pack with "Pulse" turned on, which also can cause overheating of the motor. What kind of power pack are you using (brand & model)? The hum doesn't seem to diminish much as the train moves away and onto straight track, which also seems a bit odd. Not being there in person makes it really hard to judge what the problem actually is, but if it's mechanical, the problem shouldn't be apparent on straight track. Are there any electronics on board the loco for lighting or rf suppression (common in European locos)?

Bill in FL
railtwister
 
Posts: 723
Images: 4
Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 8:39 am
Location: Oakland Park (Ft. Lauderdale), FL, USA

Re: lok and roll f3

Postby jmass » Wed Apr 11, 2012 11:09 pm

mark, the f3 is run on a piko dc transformer. when i run the br 118 i disconect and hook up the dcc controller. as far as the hum goes it will happen even on a long stretch of straight track. as you slow down, the hum gets louder. as for the curves, it actually runs better through the bedding track curves then the advanced curves. bill, the piko controller is the kind that comes with the basic starter sets.
User avatar
jmass
 
Posts: 817
Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2009 6:39 pm

Re: lok and roll f3

Postby railtwister » Wed Apr 11, 2012 11:14 pm

From what you said in the thread called "DCC bedding glass" it sounds like you ARE using DCC to run a non-decoder equipped Lok-n-Roll F3. I would advise it would be best to either hook up a DC power pack to run this loco, or get a decoder for it as soon as possible. Continued operation of a DC loco using a DCC power pack is very hard on the DC motor, especially when the train is stopped.

Bill in FL
railtwister
 
Posts: 723
Images: 4
Joined: Sun Oct 04, 2009 8:39 am
Location: Oakland Park (Ft. Lauderdale), FL, USA

Re: lok and roll f3

Postby jmass » Wed Apr 11, 2012 11:26 pm

bill, i switch from one source to the other by disconnecting from the terminal track wire. in the videos of the f3 i am using the piko dc starter controll. i just hooked the dcc unit back up tonight so i can run the digital set. only thing that stays the same is the wire from the terminal track. the problem i think with the f3 is that the piko power pack might not be the best and i might have to buy an mrc to see if there is any difference. but im not running the f3 on dcc. however, the br 118 will run on a dc powerpack as it has a dual mode chip inside.
User avatar
jmass
 
Posts: 817
Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2009 6:39 pm

PreviousNext

Return to General Discussion

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron