How to make bogie diesel mechanisms?

How to make bogie diesel mechanisms?

Postby scaro » Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:08 am

As most will know, I've been looking into chassis that could be used for Australian TT.

Most of the Tilligs and BTTBs would not seem to like having their wheels adjusted to a wider gauge and from what I see on here about the mechanisms, they don't look like they'd take kindly to lengthening or shortening. And even then, they may not be spot on.

From what I see of mechanisms made as special orders, particularly Andrew Shillito's 'Shillibo' diesel ones, while it looks difficult to make a mech, it doesn't look THAT difficult, provided one learns the principles, can solder and a drill holes with decent accuracy and can access a decent source of gears, worms and wheels. Is anyone aware of any article that goes into how bogie diesel mechs in particular are done?

A long way down the track, but I think it's worth considering.

Ben
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Re: How to make bogie diesel mechanisms?

Postby ctxmf74 » Fri Jan 22, 2010 2:54 pm

scaro wrote: Is anyone aware of any article that goes into how bogie diesel mechs in particular are done?


A look at the hollywood foundry /bull ant site is a pretty good overview of what's necessary. Also take a look at old O gauge diesels for some basic ideas as they were made in the blacksmith era of industrial design. A NWSL catalog has a lot of practical gearbox, wheel, and axel info. Putting it all together is the hard part, it takes some tools and some skills that might not be worth the cost and trouble to acquire for just one or two locos if you can get bull ant to build what you want? ........dave
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Re: How to make bogie diesel mechanisms?

Postby AstroGoat760 » Wed Feb 03, 2010 1:43 am

Does anyone know how well a resin power truck would hold up?

I have been giving this some thought, and am exploring the possibility of creating my own power truck using easily obtained gears and can motors, and putting that wheel press and wheel pullers that I have to good use.

I know that plastic has been used in many gauges for power trucks, I am just curious how a resin casting might hold up. Perhaps if wear is excessive, sections of brass could be used as a bushing and electrical contact method.

I placed an order for a resin casting set last weekend, and should be here in a few weeks. I have already made a list of parts I will make castings of, to include:
1.) Tank Car Domes, and possibly bodies as well.
2.) HP steamer cabs (I have two broken cabs that I am hesitant to try to reuse.)
3.) Boxcar doors (Basically recast some HP Products parts that I have)
4.) Reefer Ice Hatches (Again, HP Products parts)
5.) HP steamer valve linkages
6.) Vehicles
7.) People (Nicholle has been making wire armatures of different sized people in different poses, so this is more her project than mine)

Regarding the power trucks, a prototype of a 4 wheel power truck for a 4 wheel trolley car is being made out of strip styrene. Until I get it operational, and passes a satisfactory load test, I will not post photos of it, besides, right now it is a hunk of white plastic, and so far has not made good photos.

ConducTTor, it is my goal to try to get to some point of manufacturing parts by the middle of the year, so I will need to get a site made, and I may need help with that.
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Re: How to make bogie diesel mechanisms?

Postby ConducTTor » Wed Feb 03, 2010 1:55 am

I'm not sure what kind of resin you're using but I have experience with fiberglass resin and all the strength comes from the fiber that is soaked in it. However, given the relatively low stresses that a truck would go through I expect that fiber would not be needed. It's just a matter of the thickness of the piece and the brittleness of the resin. As for how it would stand up to wear, I have no idea. Try it out and see how it goes.
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Re: How to make bogie diesel mechanisms?

Postby AstroGoat760 » Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:40 am

ConducTTor wrote:I'm not sure what kind of resin you're using but I have experience with fiberglass resin and all the strength comes from the fiber that is soaked in it. However, given the relatively low stresses that a truck would go through I expect that fiber would not be needed. It's just a matter of the thickness of the piece and the brittleness of the resin. As for how it would stand up to wear, I have no idea. Try it out and see how it goes.


Right now I plan on using the Smooth-On 2 part resin. They had some sample made parts that were re-castings of kit parts, with the original part for comparison. My impression of the resin was that it is a little less flexible and definitely stronger than the styrene that the originals were made of. The Smooth-On website shows gears made out of their resin, so it looks like it should work.

I do plan on subjecting the prototypes to a number of wear tests. Before I try to sell any of the power trucks, I intend on placing the prototype to a run time test, keeping it at a moderate overload for a couple of months and see how bad the wear is. I am planning on making two prototypes of a 4 wheel truck, one with bushings and one without, to see how each one fares out.

If all works out with me medically, and the tests work out, I should be able to get a few trucks out the door by the end of the year. Aside from my tractors, which requires more and more painkillers to run, I have no life outside of work other than my trains and this site.
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Re: How to make bogie diesel mechanisms?

Postby Marquette » Wed Feb 03, 2010 3:32 am

@Sailor: in addition to the tank car domes I would suggest (beg) for end caps, too!

@ConducTTor: "fiberglass resin" - I actually *have* in the past thought about using Derakane minus the fiberglass for model castings, back when I was working at a place making dual laminate piping systems. I did "cast" a few coaster-type things to put under flower pots, and those seemed fairly solid even relatively thin (1/10 to 1/8 inch or so), but I decided after a while that would be a bad idea for modelling - the distinctive stench lingers a long time, plus when sanding, Derakane behaves rather like glass.
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Re: How to make bogie diesel mechanisms?

Postby AstroGoat760 » Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:29 am

TTQuebec wrote:@Sailor: in addition to the tank car domes I would suggest (beg) for end caps, too!


I have no tank car end caps that are separate from the car at this time. I have a HP Products tank car dome that is unpainted and detached from the rest of the car.
All of the tankers that I have are made out of wooden dowels or sheet brass.
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Re: How to make bogie diesel mechanisms?

Postby CSD » Wed Feb 03, 2010 10:53 am

AngrySailor302 wrote:Does anyone know how well a resin power truck would hold up?


I have cast a few resin parts and have found the material to be a bit brittle. Caution must be used so as not to drop it.
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Re: How to make bogie diesel mechanisms?

Postby AstroGoat760 » Wed Feb 03, 2010 11:06 pm

CSD wrote:
AngrySailor302 wrote:Does anyone know how well a resin power truck would hold up?


I have cast a few resin parts and have found the material to be a bit brittle. Caution must be used so as not to drop it.


I have been told that many older, as well as quick set, types of resin are brittle. From what handling I got to do first hand of some cast resin parts made from 2-part smooth on, and I would say that those parts are hard to tell apart from the styrene parts, so I think the 2-part smooth on should hold up, but again testing will be done before any power truck leaves the shop.

One thing that I thought of earlier: many trucks are made of resin, including PVM, and so far no problems with embrittlement have been noted.
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Re: How to make bogie diesel mechanisms?

Postby ConducTTor » Wed Feb 03, 2010 11:58 pm

AngrySailor302 wrote:One thing that I thought of earlier: many trucks are made of resin, including PVM, and so far no problems with embrittlement have been noted.


I have no idea how the PVM trucks are manufactured but it's possible they use at least one layer of cloth which would dramatically enhance their strength and anti brittleness. Like steel wire in concrete.
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