Bowser 3D Printing

Re: Bowser 3D Printing

Postby Richard-B » Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:44 pm

Bernd wrote:<snip> the process lends itself to fast prototyping and fast production of plastic injection molding. I believe that Bowser has finally come up with a good answer to producing parts by creating a master in 3D and then making injection plastic molded parts from them. http://www.bowser-trains.com/new/3d.html
NO: They are only doing "lost plastic" investment casting... (like lost-wax brass or jewelry-making) NOT for injection molding.
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Re: Bowser 3D Printing

Postby Richard-B » Wed Aug 20, 2014 10:30 pm

Bernd wrote:Yes your right. I got a bit to excited about this process. But you still need to inject the molten plastic into the mold, right?
The is no "injection" going on.
The capability Bowser has brought in-house is to 3D print smaller detail parts... either in plastic (as shown) or directly in wax. The part is either printed with a sprue, or has one attached, and then the parts are covered with a ceramic clay slurry which is high temperature resistant.
The ceramic clay is then heated to the point where the plastic/wax model part "burns-out", which creates an exact void in the ceramic the shape of the part. Hence the name "lost wax" casting.
Molten brass, silver, gold... etc. is then poured through the sprue hole, and fills the void making an exact copy of the master. The ceramic is then removed from around the part, using different methods depending on how fragile the part might be.

This is how Bowser's existing Cal-scale parts are done... but without the 3D printed original.
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Re: Bowser 3D Printing

Postby Richard-B » Wed Aug 20, 2014 10:34 pm

Bernd wrote:The plastic still needs to be injected whether it's into a high pressure tool steal mold or a low pressure cast epoxy mold. They are probably using a epoxy mold. Here read all about using epoxy castings as a mold. A table top press for the do it yourselfer. http://www.injectionmolder.net/moldmaking.htm
This is another technique... different from what Bowser is discussing, but one that would be useful for making very small quantity production runs of injection-molded parts like car ends...
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Re: Bowser 3D Printing

Postby Richard-B » Thu Aug 21, 2014 12:01 pm

Bernd wrote:Having a high curiosity index, I did a search on the material being used to make a 3D part, VisiJet FTX Green. And I learned something new. A plastic that can be burned out to make a cavity for a part. Here's the part that's very interesting, the plastic material is great for small plastic prototypes, and it burns out cleanly for ash-free castings. So now I know there is a plastic that works similar to wax burn out.
Bingo!!! Now you've got it.
The key, as you point out, is a clean, ash-free, burn out. We are lucky in this regard, as we can ride on the back of the jewelry industry, which is driving a lot of this at the small end.

Note also that even Shapeways is offering direct 'print-to-wax' services... once again originally targeted to jewelers.
https://www.shapeways.com/materials/wax
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Re: Bowser 3D Printing

Postby Richard-B » Thu Aug 21, 2014 1:05 pm

Bernd wrote:Now all I need to do is learn how to use 3D programs. I've tried Sketchup but got frustrated. I'm pretty good with 2D cad but 3D has got me tied in knots. Perhaps some more practice.
Join the crowd!
I suspect there are more than a few of us having "issues" with 3D.
I just tried to install yet another 3D program this week... but it dumps an error code when I try to start it up. That leaves me with only 3 incompatible software programs installed!
It seems that the fundamental approach of these packages can differ greatly; Autodesk 123D is obviously based on a "CAD" approach (i.e. AutoCad) , while SketchUp uses a "draw"-style user interface. VERY different...
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Re: Bowser 3D Printing

Postby MacG » Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:25 pm

I think the "lost wax" technique was the start up for the 3D-printers. Wax 3D-printers be used since many years at the jewelry industry. Now with the better SLA-technique are 3D-printers in use for the "lost wax" models in plastic. The advantage is, you can also print permanent plastic parts with this type of printers, not only "lost wax" parts.

At the dental industry is wax printing only in use since approximate 5 years. Unfortunately we have no casting equipment at our dental laboratory and no 3D-printer. But I also think about a buy of a 3D-printer (https://www.asiga.com/products/printers/pico/). There are new materials in development which remain stable above a temperatures of 100°C. The FUD from Shapeways will be soft above 50°C.

It takes time, but now I can build various things with SketchUp. Learning by doing. My first models wasn't printable and the circles had only 24 corners. This is adjustable, with 96 corners you have a nearly round circle. Use for tiny things a larger scale und rescale it (with netfabb or similar) to the dimensions you want.
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