50' Railbox

Re: 50' Railbox

Postby Rob M » Sat May 05, 2012 6:56 pm

I wouldn't worry about it just yet. When I get mine in I'll see if I can adjust the bolster height for them. Shouldn't be a big deal :wink:
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Re: 50' Railbox

Postby ConducTTor » Sat May 05, 2012 7:14 pm

Ok. Let me know they're no good for you.
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Re: 50' Railbox

Postby Rob M » Tue May 08, 2012 4:57 pm

These two have identical under frames and both have Gold Coast wheels (33's?). The only difference is the trucks and the sides of the cars. They look close enough to me :thumbup:

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Re: 50' Railbox

Postby Rob M » Tue May 08, 2012 5:12 pm

Another pic that shows how close they are.

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Re: 50' Railbox

Postby railtwister » Tue May 08, 2012 7:12 pm

Actually, the car on the left with the Shapeways trucks looks like the coupler knuckle is .020"-.030" higher. Hopefully, the coupler box isn't part of the underframe, so it should not be a problem to shim the coupler so that is at the proper height, as long as the rest of the car looks OK (but it looks a bit high as well). A more critical thing to check is the clearance of the wheel flange and the car underbody and crossmembers, to be sure that it doesn't rub in curves or over rough track, which can cause derailments that can be hard to figure out.

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Re: 50' Railbox

Postby ConducTTor » Tue May 08, 2012 7:25 pm

The couplers can be shimmed down - not a problem. I'm curious about the potential rubbing of the wheels against the underframe as well.
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Re: 50' Railbox

Postby Rob M » Tue May 08, 2012 7:32 pm

Rubbing underneath won't be a problem but it looks like I'll need to raise the height of the side skirt a hair, not a problem.

According to Elmer's coupler height gauge the one with Alex's trucks (in wet primer right now) should be close to the right height.
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Re: 50' Railbox

Postby railtwister » Wed May 09, 2012 12:11 am

Rob M wrote:Rubbing underneath won't be a problem but it looks like I'll need to raise the height of the side skirt a hair, not a problem.

According to Elmer's coupler height gauge the one with Alex's trucks (in wet primer right now) should be close to the right height.


OK Rob,

That's good, but the bottom edge of the body where it sits over the trucks still looks a tad bit high to me. I suppose this could be corrected by lowering the body a bit on the frame if it bothers me enough.

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Re: 50' Railbox

Postby Rob M » Wed May 09, 2012 12:52 am

Well, ignore the photos of the yellow one (ABOX) I've posted up till now. I've redesigned the lower edge on them to be more accurate. Where it is rounded and steps up now has a smaller radius and only goes up about half as much. Will hopefully be able to post new photos of both tomorrow, painted and decaled.
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Re: 50' Railbox

Postby Rob M » Thu May 10, 2012 8:16 pm

Tip of the day: When painting something yellow you need to use yellow or white primer. Otherwise, even with light gray primer it will take way too many coats to hide the darker base color. (From the Googling I did this seems to apply to all types of paint, house, automotive or models.)

One problem with the decals is that the blue in the X logo turns green when put on the model. This is because with making homemade decals they are somewhat transparent. I'm going to order some of the HO & N Railbox decals from Mircoscale to see if the logos from them will work. They have 3 different sizes on each so maybe some combination will work out. http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=60-1309&Product_Count=&Category_Code=


Seems all the ABOX cars have the same letter/logo scheme. The only thing left to do with these is raise the bottom edge a little to cure the clearance with the Shapeways trucks. The HP ladders look like a great match to the original.
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For the RBOX I am unable to find any rhyme or reason for the letter/logo scheme they use. Neither the road number nor class type seems to make a difference from all the photos I've seen. It seems they used whatever they had on hand. So, decals for both will be included. The one with the smaller X logo is easier to decal, only the big R goes over the ribs. On these I also need to redo the bottom edge the same as the ABOX.
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